Used 5th Wheel Toy Hauler
Buying Checklist

• Look up the real market valueSearch the exact year, make, and model on J.D. Power RV values (formerly NADA), then check RVTrader and Facebook Marketplace for 3 to 5 comparable listings. Write down the range. Sellers price on hope, you negotiate on data.
  ⚑
• Get the VIN before you drive outAsk the seller to text you the VIN. Run it through NICB VINCheck (free, checks theft and salvage) and search for open recalls at nhtsa.gov/recalls. If the seller will not give the VIN, that is your answer.
  ⚑
• Ask for the title status over text"Is the title in your name, clean, and in hand?" Get it in writing. No title in hand means no deal today, period. A lienholder title means you pay the bank directly, never the seller.
  ⚑
• Ask why they are selling and how it was storedCovered or indoor storage is a huge plus. "Stored outside under trees" means roof and sealant scrutiny. Vague answers about why they are selling usually mean an expensive problem they hope you will not find.
  ⚑
• Ask them to have it ready for a full systems testBatteries charged, propane in the tanks, water in the fresh tank or a hose hookup available, and slides closed so you can watch them open. A seller who refuses to demo systems is hiding dead systems.
  ⚑
• Check average repair costs for what you might findKnow your numbers going in: roof reseal $500 to $1,500, full roof replacement $8,000 to $12,000, RV fridge $1,500 to $3,000, AC unit $1,200 to $2,000, tires $300 to $500 each, ramp door cable repair $300 to $800. These are your negotiation chips.
  ⚑
• Line up your payment method safelyCashier's check or bank wire at your bank, or cash counted inside a bank lobby. Never carry cash to a stranger's driveway for a first visit. If the price is right you can do the money part at a bank branch today.
  ⚑
• Plan daylight and timeA proper inspection takes 90 minutes to 2 hours. Never inspect in the dark or in rain, both hide the exact damage you are looking for. If you are running late, reschedule rather than rush.
  ⚑

• Bright flashlightYour phone light is not enough for the underbelly and inside cabinets.
  ⚑
• Ladder tall enough for the roofIf the rig has its own rear ladder, test it gently first. Do not skip the roof, it is where the money hides.
  ⚑
• Moisture meter$25 to $35 at any hardware store, the single best money you will spend today. Pin type reads inside walls around windows and corners.
  ⚑
• Outlet testerThe little $8 three-light plug tells you instantly if outlets are wired right and grounded.
  ⚑
• Tire tread depth gauge or a quarterWashington's head upside down in the groove: if you can see the top of his head, tread is under 4/32 and the tire is close to done.
  ⚑
• Gloves and something to lie onYou are going under this trailer. Mechanic gloves and a piece of cardboard or a creeper mat.
  ⚑
• Screwdriver or awl for probe testingFor gently probing suspected soft wood at the roof edge, floor corners, and around the ramp door frame. Ask permission first, gentle pressure only.
  ⚑
• Phone charger and this checklist loadedTwo hours of photos, videos, and flashlight use will eat your battery.
  ⚑
• A second set of eyesBring someone. They watch the slide seals while you run the switch, they hear the weird noise you miss, and sellers behave better with a witness.
  ⚑
• Your truck, hitched-ready if possibleIf your bed rails or gooseneck puck hitch is installed, you can verify pin box height and hitch fit on the spot, and tow it home today if everything passes.
  ⚑

Why exterior first: water kills RVs, and water gets in from outside. If the shell fails this section, the pretty interior does not matter.

• Sight down each sidewall for delaminationWalk awayStand at each corner and look down the length of the wall like sighting a rifle. Bubbles, ripples, or waviness in fiberglass walls means the inner plywood layer got wet and separated. Press on any bubble, if it flexes or crunches, the wall is rotting from inside. This is a structural repair that costs more than the discount you will get.
  ⚑
• Inspect every corner seam and molding stripFront cap to sidewall, rear wall corners, and the trim strips. Look for cracked, peeled, or globbed-on caulk. Fresh thick caulk smeared over a seam is a seller patching a known leak, note where it is, then hunt for water damage inside at that exact spot.
  ⚑
• Check the front cap for cracks and fadeFifth wheel front caps take the road blast. Spider cracks in gelcoat are cosmetic, cracks that go through are not. Heavy oxidation tells you it lived outside uncovered.
  ⚑
• Check around every window, door, and marker lightBlack streaks running down from a corner mean water has been tracking there for a while. Press the wall just below each window bottom corner, that is the number one leak entry point on any RV.
  ⚑
• Open and inspect every basement and storage baySmell each one (musty means water), check for water stains, rusted hinges, and working latches and locks. Look at the ceiling of the basement, stains there mean the floor above leaks.
  ⚑
• Inspect slide-out exteriors and roofsWith slides out, look at the slide roof (stand on your ladder), the sweep seals, and the wiper seals all the way around. Torn, flattened, or missing seals let water in every time it rains. Look for scrape marks on the slide walls that suggest misalignment.
  ⚑
• Check the pin box and kingpinSurface rust is normal. Cracked welds, elongated bolt holes, or a kingpin with deep grooves or flat spots are not. Grab the pin box and try to rock it, any movement means loose or worn mounting.
  ⚑
• Test the landing gear (front jacks)Run them up and down with the switch. Grinding, one side moving slower, or visible bending means gearbox or motor trouble, $400 to $900 to fix. Check the feet and inner tubes for bends.
  ⚑
• Check the entry door and stepsDoor should close with one hand and seal evenly, a door that needs a slam or shows daylight at a corner can mean frame flex. Steps should fold and lock solidly.
  ⚑
• Look at overall body lines and panel gapsMismatched paint, a new decal on one side only, or uneven panel gaps mean bodywork. Ask directly: "Has this been in an accident or hit anything?" Watch the face, then verify the story underneath.
  ⚑
• Check the awning fabric and armsRoll it out fully. Small tears at the roller are $200 to $400 in fabric, bent arms are more. Leave it out, you will want shade while you do the underbelly anyway.
  ⚑
• Verify the VIN plate matches the title VINVIN sticker is usually on the front left exterior wall or pin box area. Photograph it. It must match the title character for character. A missing or damaged VIN plate is a serious problem.
  ⚑

Rule of thumb: a roof reseal is a few hundred bucks. A roof that leaked for two seasons is a $10,000 rig-killer. Ten minutes up top tells you which one you are looking at.

• Walk the roof and feel for soft spotsWalk awayEdges, seams, and around every fixture must feel firm, that is where water gets in. Out in the middle, a slight even flex between the rafters is normal on thin RV decking and springs right back. What you are hunting is a localized spot that feels softer than the roof around it, crunches, or stays dented after you step off. Rot is patchy, normal flex is uniform. A truly soft spot is structural rot, and it always spreads wider than it feels.
  ⚑
• Inspect the membrane surfaceRubber (EPDM/TPO) roofs: look for tears, punctures from branches, bubbles, and chalky heavy wear. Small patches done cleanly are fine. A membrane that is stretched, torn at the edges, or patched with a shopping list of different materials is due for replacement.
  ⚑
• Check sealant at every single penetrationAC units, vents, skylights, antenna, plumbing stacks, and the front and rear cap seams. The lap sealant should be intact and rubbery. Cracked, lifted, or missing sealant at even one fixture means water has had a way in. Note every bad spot and check inside below it.
  ⚑
• Inspect skylights and vent lidsLook for cracked, yellowed, or brittle plastic. Cheap to replace ($30 to $100 each) but every cracked one is a live leak. Open the vents from inside later to confirm they work.
  ⚑
• Check AC shrouds and mountsCracked shrouds are cheap. What matters: the AC units should sit flat and their gaskets should not be squashed to nothing. Count the units and note brand and model for your systems test.
  ⚑
• Check the roof-to-front-cap and roof-to-rear-wall seamsThese two transitions flex the most going down the road and are the most common major leak points on fifth wheels. Look for gaps, lifting, and layered old caulk.
  ⚑
• Ask when the roof was last resealedCorrect answer is a year, roughly every 1 to 2 years for touch-ups. "It's never needed it" on a 5+ year old rig means it is overdue and you just found a negotiation item.
  ⚑

• Inspect frame rails for cracks and repairsWalk awayRun your flashlight down both main I-beams, especially above the axles and at the pin box area up front. Look for cracked welds, fresh paint over one spot only (hiding a repair), or gusset plates that did not come from the factory. Frame damage on a toy hauler that has hauled heavy is real and disqualifying.
  ⚑
• Check for rust typeSurface rust is cosmetic and normal. Flaking, scaling rust that leaves pits when you knock it off, especially on spring hangers and crossmembers, is structural decay. Northern or coastal rigs need extra scrutiny here.
  ⚑
• Inspect leaf springs and shacklesLook for a broken or flattened leaf (compare arch side to side), worn shackle bolts, and the equalizer between axles. Grab each spring pack and check for shifted leaves. Suspension rebuilds run $800 to $2,000.
  ⚑
• Check axle alignment visuallyStand behind the trailer and sight the tires: both axles' wheels should line up vertically and track straight. A bent axle shows as a tire leaning in or out at the top, and its tire will show inner or outer edge wear to match.
  ⚑
• Inspect the underbelly materialThe corrugated plastic (coroplast) sheeting should be attached and dry. Sagging, water-stained, or bulging underbelly means a plumbing leak has been collecting in there. Press up on any sag, if water sloshes, you found a leak the seller may not even know about.
  ⚑
• Check tanks and tank valvesLocate fresh, gray, and black tanks. Look for cracks, previous epoxy repairs, and stains below the dump valves. Cycle both dump valve handles, they should slide without heroic force.
  ⚑
• Check wiring and plumbing runs underneathLook for wires hanging low, chewed insulation (rodents love stored RVs), and zip-tie repairs. Rodent evidence underneath means check every cabinet inside for nests and chewed wiring.
  ⚑
• Look for signs of grease maintenanceFresh grease at the zerk fittings on the suspension and evidence of repacked wheel bearings (ask for the receipt and date). Bearings should be repacked roughly every year or 10,000 to 12,000 miles. No records means budget a $300 to $400 bearing service immediately.
  ⚑
• Check the breakaway switch and 7-pin connectorThe breakaway cable and switch should be intact at the pin box. Inspect the 7-pin plug for corroded or bent pins, this is the source of half of all trailer light problems.
  ⚑

• Read the date code on every tire, including the spareFind "DOT" on the sidewall, the last 4 digits are week and year (3221 = week 32 of 2021). Trailer tires age out at 5 to 7 years regardless of tread. A rig on original 8-year-old tires needs $1,200 to $2,000 of rubber before it is safe to tow home, that comes off the price.
  ⚑
• Check sidewalls for cracking and bulgesWeather checking (fine cracks) in the sidewall means dry rot. Any bulge or knot is a tire that can blow on the drive home. Do not tow on it.
  ⚑
• Read the wear patternEven wear is good. Inner or outer edge wear on one tire points to a bent axle or spindle. Scalloped or cupped wear points to suspension problems. The tires are telling you about the metal above them.
  ⚑
• Verify load range matches the trailer's needsCheck the tire load range letter (usually E or G on big toy haulers) against the federal sticker's tire spec. Someone who put cheaper lower-rated tires on a heavy toy hauler saved $200 and created a blowout machine.
  ⚑
• Inspect wheels and lug nutsRust streaks radiating from lug holes mean loose lugs at some point. Check for cracked or bent rims, especially inner wheels if it is a dual-wheel setup.
  ⚑
• Test the electric brakes when hitchedOnce connected to your truck, use the brake controller's manual slider at 5 mph in the seller's driveway or street. You should feel the trailer grab. No grab, or grab on one side (trailer pulls), means brake work: magnets, wiring, or full backing plates at $300 to $500 per axle.
  ⚑

Toy hauler truth: the garage lived a harder life than the rest of the rig. Gas spills, tie-down abuse, and a 30-square-foot hole in the back wall that has to seal perfectly.

• Cycle the ramp door fully, twiceLower and raise it completely two times. It should move smoothly and evenly, no jerking, no racking to one side, no cable groan. If it has an electric lift, also test the manual release.
  ⚑
• Inspect ramp cables, springs, and hingesLook for frayed cable strands (run a rag along them, it snags on broken wires), stretched springs, and cracked hinge welds. A ramp door assembly failure is $500 to $1,500 and the door weighs enough to hurt someone.
  ⚑
• Check the ramp door seal and the floor just inside itWalk awayThe rubber seal around the ramp opening must be intact all the way around. Then kneel and press the garage floor along the rear edge and both back corners. Soft, spongy, or stained floor here means the ramp has been leaking, and toy hauler garage floors are built thick, so by the time they feel soft the rot is serious.
  ⚑
• Walk the entire garage floorFeel for soft spots everywhere, not just the rear. Check the tie-down D-rings: grab each one and pull hard. Loose or pulled-through anchors mean the floor structure under them is compromised or they were overloaded.
  ⚑
• Smell for fuel and check for spill stainingPersistent gas smell means spills soaked into the floor, a fire risk and a sign of careless loading. Check walls at bike-handlebar height for gouges and patched holes.
  ⚑
• Test the onboard fuel stationIf equipped: check the pump powers on, the hose and nozzle are not cracked, and there is no fuel smell around the tank compartment. Ask when it was last used. A seized fuel station pump is $200 to $600.
  ⚑
• Test the generator cold, then hotMost toy haulers have an Onan. Check the hour meter (under 1,000 hours is low, over 2,500 is a lot without records). It should start within two tries cold, run without surging, and carry a real load: turn on one AC unit and let it run 10 minutes. Ask for oil change records, generator rebuilds run $2,000 to $4,000.
  ⚑
• Test garage extras: beds, lift, screen wall, patio kitHappijac beds or a lift system: run them full travel both ways and listen for grinding. Fold-down side rails and patio fencing: check hinges and cables. Rear screen wall: check zippers and tears.
  ⚑
• Confirm garage cargo capacity on the weight stickerFind the cargo carrying capacity (CCC) sticker. Do the math for your toys: two full-size ATVs or a UTV can be 1,500 to 2,500 lbs before gear, fuel, and water. A toy hauler with a 2,000 lb CCC is a toy hauler in name only.
  ⚑
• Check garage ventilation and fuel-vapor safetyConfirm the garage vents work and, if it has one, the LP/CO detector in the garage area powers up and is in date (they expire in 5 to 7 years, check the sticker on the back).
  ⚑

First 10 seconds inside: smell. Musty, damp, or heavy air freshener are all the same answer. Air freshener in an RV being sold is perfume on a problem.

• Smell test with slides closedAsk for the rig closed up before you arrive if possible. Mustiness that hits you at the door is trapped moisture. Note it and let the hunt begin.
  ⚑
• Check every ceiling corner and edgeWalk awayBrown rings, tea-colored stains, wavy or sagging ceiling panels, and discolored wallpaper seams. Press any suspect spot, soft ceiling means saturated framing above. Match stains to the sealant problems you found on the roof. Widespread ceiling damage is the walk-away version, one small dry old stain with a solid meter reading can be negotiated.
  ⚑
• Meter-test below every window and both front cornersPut the moisture meter on the wall below each window's bottom corners and in the bedroom's front wall corners (front cap seam leaks land here). Under 15 percent is dry, 15 to 20 is suspect, over 20 is an active problem.
  ⚑
• Walk every inch of floor, including slide floorsSlow heel-to-toe walk through the whole rig. Soft spots show up most at the entry door, in front of the shower, around the toilet, and at slide-out floor edges. Step onto each slide floor deliberately, slide floors rot from wiper seal leaks and are expensive to rebuild.
  ⚑
• Open every cabinet and look up and backEspecially overhead cabinets against exterior walls and everything under both sinks. Flashlight into the back corners: stains, warped shelving, rusted hinges, mouse droppings, chewed wiring.
  ⚑
• Inspect the shower and bathroom closelyCracked shower pans leak into the subfloor invisibly. Push on the pan floor, check the skylight above the shower for crack and stain, check caulk lines, and confirm the toilet is solid to the floor (a rocking toilet means a leaking flange and soft floor).
  ⚑
• Open and close every window and check sealsEach window should latch, and the glass should be clear. Fog between dual panes means a blown seal. Check screens for tears.
  ⚑
• Test all furniture and bedsRecliners recline, sofa beds fold out, table mounts are solid, mattress is not stained underneath (flip it, moisture condenses under RV mattresses against outside walls).
  ⚑
• Check interior of slide-outs from insideWith slides out, inspect the interior fascia and headliner of each slide box for stains, and the carpet or flooring at the slide edges for water marks and crushing damage.
  ⚑
• Verify safety equipmentSmoke detector, CO detector, and LP detector all power on and are in date (expiration on the back label). Fire extinguisher present and charged. Emergency exit window opens. Cheap items, but a dead LP detector also hints at how the rig was maintained.
  ⚑
• Count and match keysEntry door, basement bays, and fuel station should all have keys present. Missing bay keys is a $50 to $150 annoyance and a negotiation line item.
  ⚑
• Photograph everything as you goEvery flaw, every sticker, every serial number. Photos are your negotiation evidence and your memory when you compare rigs later tonight.
  ⚑

The rule: "it worked last season" means it does not work. If the seller cannot demo a system live, price the repair as real and deduct it.

• Check the batteriesLook at the date sticker on each battery (over 4 to 5 years old is end of life), check terminals for corrosion, and check the water level if they are flooded lead-acid. Weak batteries are $200 to $400 each, lithium setups more.
  ⚑
• Test 12V systems on battery onlyBefore plugging into shore power: interior lights, water pump, slide motors, and jacks should all run off the batteries. If nothing works until shore power is connected, the batteries or converter are dead.
  ⚑
• Connect shore power and check the converterPlug in (bring adapters). Outlets should go live, and the converter should hum quietly charging the batteries. Use your outlet tester on several outlets including GFCI ones, and press test/reset on the GFCI.
  ⚑
• Open the breaker panel and fuse panelLook for scorch marks, melted insulation, double-tapped breakers, and a rat's nest of added wiring. Amateur electrical work is a fire risk and a sign of how everything else was "fixed."
  ⚑
• Run every AC unit for 10+ minutesEach unit should blow air 18 to 20 degrees colder than the room within a few minutes and cycle without tripping breakers. Weak cooling or a compressor that never kicks in means a $1,200 to $2,000 replacement per unit. Listen for grinding fan bearings.
  ⚑
• Test the furnaceSet the thermostat to heat. The fan should start, then you should hear ignition and feel real heat within a minute or two. Short cycling, ignition clicking with no flame, or a dusty burn smell that never clears are all furnace repairs, $300 to $1,200.
  ⚑
• Test the water heater on BOTH electric and propaneRun it on electric, get hot water at a faucet, then switch to propane mode and confirm it ignites (you will hear the whump of the burner). Most used rigs have one dead mode the seller "never uses." Check the anode rod area for leaks while you are at the panel.
  ⚑
• Test the fridge on BOTH modesAbsorption fridges must be tested on electric AND propane, and they take time, so ask the seller to have it running before you arrive. The freezer plate should be cold to the touch. A dead RV absorption fridge is $1,500 to $3,000. If it is a 12V compressor fridge, confirm it is actually cooling and check its amp draw story with the battery bank size.
  ⚑
• Test the water pump and city water, then hunt for leaksRun the pump with faucets closed: it should build pressure and shut off, then stay off. A pump that cycles every few seconds means a leak or a bad check valve. Then connect city water. Either way: open every faucet, run the shower, flush the toilet, and immediately check under every sink and along the underbelly for drips.
  ⚑
• Sniff-test the propane systemWith tanks on, smell at the regulator, at each appliance connection, and inside cabinets where lines run. Any rotten-egg smell is a leak. Check the regulator's date (they age out around 10 to 15 years) and the tanks' recertification dates.
  ⚑
• Test the stove and ovenEvery burner lights and holds a steady blue flame. The oven ignites and holds temperature. Yellow lazy flames mean dirty or misadjusted burners.
  ⚑
• Check the tank monitor panelPress the test button and read all tank levels and battery voltage. Monitors that read full-full-full on empty tanks are common and cheap-ish to fix, but note it, you will be flying blind on black tank capacity until you do.
  ⚑
• Ask about tank history and winterization"When did you last dump and flush the black tank?" and "Has it been winterized every year?" A rig from a freezing state that was never winterized may have cracked lines and fittings that only show up under pressure, which is why you ran the pump test hard.
  ⚑
• Test entertainment and accessoriesTVs, stereo, exterior speakers, backup camera prep or camera, solar panels and charge controller readout if equipped. Small stuff, but it all goes on the negotiation list.
  ⚑

• Run every slide fully out and fully in, watching from outsideHave your second person work the switch. Each slide should move smoothly and evenly, both ends traveling together. Racking (one end leading), groaning, stuttering, or visible flex means motor, gear, or alignment problems, $500 to $2,000 per slide.
  ⚑
• Check slide alignment at full extensionThe slide should sit square in its opening with even seal contact all around. Daylight visible at one corner means it will leak in the first rain.
  ⚑
• Inspect slide mechanisms underneathLook under each slide at the rams or rack-and-gear: bent shafts, hydraulic weeping on hydraulic systems, and stripped gear teeth. Ask whether it is electric or hydraulic and whether the manual override crank is present.
  ⚑
• Test auto-leveling through a full cycleIf it has auto-level (Level Up or similar), run the full auto sequence. Watch for a jack that hesitates, error codes on the panel, and hydraulic fluid at any jack. Check the reservoir level. Leveling system repairs run $500 to $3,000.
  ⚑
• Test the awning motor and lightsPower awnings: full out, full in, no chatter. LED strips and exterior lights work. Check the awning arms lock solid.
  ⚑
• Test all exterior utility portsOutside shower runs hot and cold, exterior TV hookup, exterior speakers, and any sewer flush port connection looks intact.
  ⚑
• Hitch up and test lights with your truckConnect the 7-pin: running lights, both turn signals, brake lights, and reverse lights all fire. One dead circuit is usually the plug, all dead is wiring. You want this working before the tow home, not discovered at dusk on the highway.
  ⚑

• Hold the physical title in your handsWalk awayOriginal title, not a photocopy, not "it's at my mom's house." Check for the word SALVAGE, REBUILT, or FLOOD on its face. No title today means no money today, no exceptions, no deposits to "hold it."
  ⚑
• Match the seller's ID to the title nameThe person taking your money must be the person on the title. "Selling it for my brother" is how you buy a trailer that is not theirs to sell. If there are two names on the title, both must sign.
  ⚑
• Match the VIN three waysTitle, the VIN plate on the trailer, and the federal certification sticker must all agree exactly. Photograph all three side by side.
  ⚑
• Confirm any lien is released or handled at the bankIf a lienholder is printed on the title, you need a lien release letter, or you close the deal at the lender's branch with payoff going straight to the bank. Never hand a private seller cash to "pay off the loan later."
  ⚑
• Review maintenance recordsBearing repacks, roof reseals, generator oil changes, tire receipts, warranty work. A folder of receipts is worth real money and its absence is worth a real discount.
  ⚑
• Write a bill of sale, two copiesYear, make, model, VIN, price, "sold as-is," date, both parties' names, addresses, and signatures. Florida note: you will need the title properly assigned (seller fills the transfer section including odometer/price) to register and pay sales tax at the county tax collector within 30 days.
  ⚑
• Get manuals, remotes, and extras in writingOwner's manuals, slide/leveling remotes, weight distribution or fifth wheel hitch pieces if included, sewer hoses, cords, and adapters. List anything promised on the bill of sale.
  ⚑
• Call your insurance before you tow it awayTen-minute call, bind coverage on the VIN before it moves an inch behind your truck. Also confirm your tag situation for the tow home (Florida allows transit in some cases, but a quick call to the tax collector beats a ticket).
  ⚑

• Step away and add up your flagsWalk to your truck "to check something" and total the repair costs from your flagged list below. Use the price ranges from section 1. This number, not your feelings, sets your offer.
  ⚑
• Open with evidence, not a number fight"I like the rig. Here is what I found: tires are dated 2019, the water heater will not fire on propane, and the roof needs a reseal. That is about $2,400 in real costs. I can do [asking minus repairs minus a margin] today." Photos on your phone, calm voice.
  ⚑
• Use "today" as your lever, not more moneyCash or cashier's check in hand, ready to close this afternoon, is worth 5 to 10 percent to most private sellers. Trade speed and certainty, not extra dollars.
  ⚑
• Know your walk-away number before you speakDecide the max you will pay while you are alone at the truck. If the seller will not reach it, thank them, leave your number, and drive off. Half the time the phone rings within 48 hours.
  ⚑
• Do the money transfer safelyClose at a bank if possible. Verify cashier's checks with the issuing bank if you are the one receiving anything. Get the signed title and bill of sale in your hands at the same moment the money moves.
  ⚑
• Pre-tow checklist before you pull outKingpin locked in the hitch jaws (visual check, then tug test), landing gear fully up, steps in, slides in and locked, antenna down, awning locked, everything inside secured, tire pressure set, lights checked one more time, breakaway cable attached to the truck.
  ⚑
• First 20 miles: stop and re-checkPull over after 15 to 20 minutes. Feel each wheel hub with the back of your hand (a hot hub means a dragging brake or dry bearing), re-tug the lug nuts story, check the hitch, look down each side. Then take it home easy.
  ⚑
• Within 30 days: register, insure, and serviceTitle transfer and registration at the tax collector, insurance finalized, wheel bearings repacked if no records, and a fresh reseal on any sealant you flagged. Now go load the toys.
  ⚑